There's quite a lot to write about in today's entry and sitting here in Oslo, Italy seems an absolute age ago. I'll start by describing our day off in Verona yesterday.

During our stay in Verona at the lovely Byblos hotel, we'd often remarked at the delicious Valpolocella Ripasso they serve. It was when Mark suggested we make an attempt to buy some that Peter made some enquiries with the hotel staff about the vineyard. It turns out the maitre-d at the hotel, Gianni, is good friends with the chaps who own the vineyard in question so a small sortie was organized. The Montecariano Vineyard is owned and run by two brothers, Matteo and Marco Galtarossa, their mother and their childhood friend Pietro. Matteo came to the hotel to direct us to the location. Pete, Paul and myself were driven there and the experience began. The tour started and soon went beyond anything I'd imagined. Their passion and excitement about sharing their wine making experiences was inspiring and we learned about the natural amphitheatre (facing South) in which their 20 hectares of vines are sited, the glacial mineral deposits that flavour the soil, the incredibly gentle picking methods used by the team of pickers (some of which have been harvesting grapes for four decades) treating the freshly picked bunches of grapes like newborn babies so as not to break the skin, the meticulous drying periods, the critical fermentation process, in short, the time and craft handed down from generations past that is needed to produce these exquisite wines. They produce only 20,000 bottles of wine a year, not a lot, with the emphasis firmly on quality.







After seeing the huge fermentation containers (above) we were ushered into a room containing the wooden barrels, each labeled with the wine type and year of harvesting. Since the Amarone wines made here need four years before they're bottled, it's a time consuming process and Matteo remarked that to do it properly "you need a lifetime". I'm pleased to report that he's devoted exactly that.  After the Amarone is bottled, it rests in the bottle a full year before it's sold.  Matteo suggests also that the Amarone needs fifteen years in the bottle before it's at it's very best so when looking for a really good one you need to hunt down a 1992 vintage. The Ripasso, the wine that prompted this adventure is made using the technique of making a second fermentation of Valpolicella grapes (Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella) on the lees of the Amarone transforming a young fresh wine into a rich full bodied wine suitable for aging in barrel and bottle. Looking at the labeled barrels I spotted many Ripasso's as well as Amarone's, Cabernet Sauvignon (unusual for this region) Valpolicella Classico's and Superiores,



Next was the inevitable 'tasting'. We were ushered into the tasting room in which was a long oak table, a dining table a beautiful old fireplace, Pietro's drum kit and some vines which were over 80 years old, past their prime but had been varnished stood next to the fireplace. We started with the simple Valpolicella Superiore which in my mind was actually quite complex. One of the most important things we learned in this room was how exactly to 'really' taste the wine. Part of this is understanding what happens when the bottle is opened and the wine poured into the glass. Time, is the key word here. As the wine oxidizes, various things happen and you can witness this event as you swirl the wine in the glass and taste the aroma. With the Valpolicella it wasn't too long before the wine was 'opening up'. As we moved on to the Cabernet and Ripasso, it was immediately obvious that MUCH more time is needed in the glass. Suddenly we were all thinking "must get new wine glasses for home". The Ripasso took a good fifteen minutes before what can only be described as an explosion of taste and aroma. The Amarone is a wine with even more complexity and requires even more breathing time, but when it opens up....wow. We must have been tasting these wines for a good hour and I noticed the vessels on the table in which one is supposed to spit out the wine after it's been tasted all remained completely dry. This stuff is just too good to waste.



We hadn't had much to eat so far during the day so when we'd concluded the tasting, Pete asked the guys if there was anywhere locally we could get some lunch. Of course by now it was 3 o'clock and Matteo reminded us that in Italy, eating outside of normal hours is impossible. By this time Gianni had come to visit from the hotel and heard our request. Moments later he announced that he would cook for us an Amarone risotto. We were both gobsmacked and grateful. It was then that I felt duty bound to call Danny and Richard to see if they wanted to come over and enjoy what was about to happen. At that moment both Richard and Danny were being dropped off in the centre of Verona both looking to get some lunch and a haircut. Not at the same time I hasten to add. Danny's reaction to my call was instantaneous, they asked Ike to turn the car round immediately and head in our direction. Matteo went out to get butter and fresh chicken stock and Marco went to meet Ike, Danny and Richard to show them the way. Within 40 minutes we were all seated round the dining table and what you see below requires no further description. . .

 








L-R Paul, Marco, Guy, Matteo, Peter and Pietro.

Below L-R Paul, Guy, Danny, Gianni, Matteo, Pietro, Richard and Ike (one of our beloved drivers)




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The next day it's back to the business at hand and my first thought was to have my final swim in my favourite pool at the hotel. I do so and even though it's not too warm, the sun comes out so I sprawled out for a while next to the pool and I'm soon joined by Mark and Danny. We order some lovely coffee and before we know it we have to check out and bid farewell to the best hotel so far. A short drive to the airport where we learn that because it's particularly busy today we can use the presidential terminal which consists of an empty lounge with direct access to the aircraft. Soon we're off back over Lake Garda and the Alps towards Copenhagen.




Pretty soon we're at the Forum where I hear comments about the crew's relief to be out of Italy.  Whilst the band are enjoying the finer side of Italian culture, the crew endure many difficulties. I don't think I'll upset anyone in our traveling party by saying that our promoter there was 'interesting', employing penny pinching methods to put on our shows much to the detriment of our boys who as always in adversity, rise above it admirably. Well done chaps!



No, seriously Simon...



Unfortunately, Matt woke this morning still suffering from the eternal tummy bug and had a bit of a struggle coping with the day. A consequence of which was that he missed the meet and greet, and we missed him. He soldiered on though and played magnificently during the show. And what a great show it was. A great audience, great sound, all over too quickly. The conventional runner to the airport and we're off to Oslo enjoying two bottles of the Montecariano Cabernet Sauvignon on the way!





Some more shots from Verona.....A better view of Ike in his driving apparel.








The caption contest is now closed






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19th April - Copenhagen - Forum

KTGC Tour 2008